Tag Archives: Holiday

The Seoul of Korea: Day 3 – Excursion to Haenggung and Hwaseong (Suwon Fortress) @ Suwon City & Night Out @ Itaewon

Third day in Seoul already! This was the start of the remaining 60% of my trip (I always think of my trips in percentages that way), and we started off early because of the out-of-Seoul day trip we were about to embark off.

Brunch @ Insadong

But of course, first thing first. We went off in hunt for a suitable food place, and at that hour in the morning (about 9 a.m.), we were disappointed to find most of the places around Beewon were closed. But after some venture into the other side of Insadong, we hit jackpot! Had this most authentic brunch at this little Korean couple-run eatery, where I had this amazing ginseng soup and spring chicken stuffed with glutinous rice. How… riveting.

Brunch @ Insadong

After the brunch, we made our way to the subway for the one-hour ride to Suwon, our destination of the day. It was so far out from Seoul that the train map in Lonely Planet did not even show Suwon station. It went right off the page! With the addition of a couple of stations along the subway line we were on, for a few moments we panicked that we were on the wrong train. But my gut instinct preserved and soon we alighted at Suwon, found the tourist information office, and off we went to Suwon City on a cab!

At Haenggung, Suwon

The cab driver dropped us at Haenggung, a “temporary palace” built by King Jeongjo, who stayed here on his visits to his father’s grave, which is nearby. His father met a tragic fate, the victim of court’s intrigues, he was suffocated in a rice chest. Courtyard follows courtyard as you walk around the large wall complex.

At Haenggung, Suwon

One hall depicts the 60th birthday party of King Jeongjo’s mother, while another hall features Daejanggeum, a female Joseon dynasty cook who rose from humble beginnings to a high position in the royal court. The TV drama about her has been a huge hit throughout Asia, and was partly filmed here (you know, Da Chang Jin in Singapore?). Military uniforms and weapons are on display and you can make a wish and tie to the oldest tree in Suwon. Other activities take place, mainly at the weekend.

At Haenggung, Suwon

We took a great many photos here, but truth to be told… once you have seen one Korean palace, you have seen it all. The palaces all started to look the same to me, except for the differences in its history. So after spending about an hour here taking in the sights (including a uniformed male guard who was flirting with a female visitor!), we made our way uphill to begin our proper tour around the Suwon Fortress, also known as Hwaseong in Korean.

At Hwaseong (Suwon Fortress)

This World Heritage fortress is in Suwon, which is home to a million residents. The majestic fortress wall snakes 5.7 km around the city center, and 95% has been faithfully restored. It was originally constructed between 1794 and 1796, during the reign of King Jeongjo, a much loved monarch due to his filial piety, and concern for ordinary people. The fortress wall is made of earth and faced with large stone blocks, while additional features are built of grey bricks.

At Hwaseong (Suwon Fortress)

Hiking all the way around the walls takes two hours and include views of the city, large entrance gates, small secret gates, sentry towers, bastions, command posts, a giant bell, and archery field, and the signal beacon platform used for sending messages in an age before mobile phones.

At Hwaseong (Suwon Fortress)

To “speed up” our tour around the entire fortress wall, the three of us took the trolley ride from on top of a hill. The tram will snake around at least half of the walls which surrounded the city. We were at the last seat, thinking that our view will be awesome since there were no seats in front of us… only to discover that a non-English speaker attendant will perch himself right in front of us Cheryl throughout the trip.

At Hwaseong (Suwon Fortress)

We were unbelievably quick to take nice photos even as the tram was moving. The sights around Suwon Fortress was truly beautiful. It was hard not to be envious of Suwon residents to be living within this very ancient walls. The people of Suwon were out in full force to appreciate the grandeur of their city and the awesome cherry blossom season.

And of course, we didn’t lose out and did a very funny video during the tram ride. Watch out for how Cheryl describe her “uncle’s residential palace” while Shafik did an impromptu dance. Yes, really, he did that! And here’s another video on what we saw during the ride.

Lunch @ Yenpo Galbi

At the end of the tram ride, we found ourselves in front of an archery field (which I wanted to try but got distracted by souvenir shopping) and a Korean restaurant called Yenpo Galbi. This famous log cabin restaurant serves us galbi including a special Suwon version of galbitang – chunks of meat and a big rib in a seasoned broth with noodles and leeks.

Lunch @ Yenpo Galbi

It was also here where I made my first acquaintance with Seju, a local alcohol packed in smallish bottle, which tasted like vodka. At only W3,000 each, it was a bargain and a sure fire way to, you know, drunkard heaven. LOL. One tip – mix this with ice cubes and orange juice, and you can’t tell the difference between that and those expensive jugs you always get in Singapore clubs.

At Hwaseong (Suwon Fortress)

After our hefty lunch (which only cost W28,000 in total!), we continue scaling the wall of Suwon Fortress towards the exit, taking in the sights along the wall, sentries, gateways, smoke beacons, pavilions. And being our silly selves, we took many funny videos of us here along the wall. Here’s one of Shafik and I “fighting on a pavilion (see below too), one of Cheryl asking for more abuse from Shafik, and (of course) a commentary from Cheryl on being a Korean princess.

The officers of UNESCO would probably have a heart attack if they see the kind of atrocities we were up to along this world heritage site. To this day I am still amazed on how close you could come up to these ancient monuments of Korea. In Europe, such sites would probably be cordoned off with thick ropes and manned with guards – you can only admire them from afar. In Seoul, however, you can literally climb onto one, have a sword-vs-scarf fight, and take a video without anyone shouting abuse at you. Of course, we didn’t spoil anything!

Fresh Produce Market @ Suwon - Ginseng

At the exit of Suwon Fortress, there was a fresh produce market (if I am not mistaken, it was called Jieju Market). You shoud see the amount of seafood and exotic items on sale – including mountains of ginseng on display in baskets and trays, as if they are mere vegetables. In Singapore, such ginseng would probably be boxed up and locked away in shops.

Dinner @ Insadong

By the time we were back in Insadong, it was already pass 7 p.m. and we were famished. Managed to find this BBQ place run by a Mandarin-speaking owner (what are the chances?) and we had the most satisfying BBQ meal ever.

Right after dinner, we went back to Beewon, slept for two hours, before dolled ourselves up for another night out at Itaewon (Hongik was just a little to tame for us, hehe). And wild it was! I can’t even remember what time we came back to our room… probably in the dawn or something.

Click here for the full set of photos taken during the third day of my holiday in Seoul. Plenty of nice photos, including some awesome Sakura in Suwon!

The Seoul of Korea: Day 2 – Gyeongbokgung (Palace of Shining Happiness), Namdaemun Market, Namsan Summit, N Seoul Tower, Myeong-Dong Catholic Cathedral & Hongik University District

After our rowdy night the day before, what with all the hotel-toilet-crashing and bashing-into-lamp-posts (plural), we were all understandably shagged to the max. Tried to sleep in late, but the workers upstairs turned up for work right on time, and at 8 a.m. sharp the drilling, knocking and smashing began. It was impossible to sleep, hence I roused Shafik and Cheryl so that we can begin our day early.

On the way to Gyeongbokgung

Our first destination of the day was within walking distance from Beewon, right smack in between Jongno-san (3) Ga station and Anguk station. The early morning walk was really refreshing, and soon we found the palace… but first thing first – we need to feed our stomach!

Breakfast @ Lime Tree, near Gyeongbokgung

The Lime Tree Cafe & Deli was a quaint, atmospheric eatery serving your typical Western food fare. The food was nice, but what really attracted us was the internal deco. The owner really put in a lot of thoughts into setting up a place like that. When I have my own book cafe, I would want it to be like that!

At Gyeongbokgung, The Palace of Shining Happiness

Right after breakfast, we went over to Gyeongbokgung, the must-see tourist destination in Seoul. And rightly so – we were sharing the entire palace with an unbelievable number of shrieking children, apparently on school trips there. There were also hundreds of men in uniform – the Royal Naval Academy of Thailand was out in full force as well. Understandbly, Gyeongbokgung was packed to the max.

At Gyeongbokgung, The Palace of Shining Happiness

Why so? The Palace of Shining Happiness was originally built by King Tajeo, the founder of the Joseon dynasty, and is the grandest of Seoul palaces served as the principal palace until 1592, when it was burnt down during the Japanese invasions. It lay in ruins for nearly 300 years until Heungseon Daewongun, regent and father of King Gojong, started to rebuild it in 1865. King Gojong moved in during 1868, but the expensive rebuilding project nearly bankrupted the government.

At Gyeongbokgung, The Palace of Shining Happiness

Two of the grandest architectural sights in Seoul are here. The first is the two-storey, ornate Geunjeongjeon, the main palace buildings where kings were crowned, met foreign envoys and conducted affairs of state. It is best viewed from the imposing second entrance gate, Heungnyemun, which is guarded by soldiers in Joseon uniform With its double-tiered stone platform, flagstone courtyard and surrounding open-sided corridors, Geunjeongjeon is an impressive sight.

At Gyeongbokgung, The Palace of Shining Happiness

To the left is Gyeonghoeru, a large raised pavilion resting on 48 stone pillars and overlooking an artificial lake with two small islands, which is almost as grand a scene. State banquets were held inside.

The Changing of Guard Ceremony @ Gyeongbokgung

Just as we arrived at the palace, the changing of guard ceremony kicked off! We were lucky to be able to catch the colourful ceremony, complete with traditional Korean music, march past of guards in colourful costumes, flag bearers, ancient weapons… you get the drift. Here’s a video of the event.

At Gyeongbokgung, The Palace of Shining Happiness

One of the best thing about this palace was that they allow you to don a set of traditional Korean costume and take photos… for free! They even have assistants whom will help you to wear the costume correctly! The only catch was that, you must wear the whole set and not just parts of it. I reckon it was out of respects for the Korean culture.

At Gyeongbokgung, The Palace of Shining Happiness

The costume was huge and “flowy”, and being the klutz I was, I managed to trip myself at least half a dozen time walking around the palace to take photos. Shafik and Cheryl were game enough to wait for me to try this out, and to take photos for me. Thanks, guys! :)

At Gyeongbokgung, The Palace of Shining Happiness

A word about the Cherry Blossom Season in Korea. During the season, sakura flowers across Korea and Japan will bloom in unison. A riot of colour of colours engulf the cities, including Seoul, providing excellent photography opportunities. The whole season lasts a little more than a week every year, usually during early April. When I booked for the trip, I have never heard of this, and it was by pure coincident that the three of us visited Seoul during the peak of the bloom, so to speak. We took plenty of photos of blooming Sakura everywhere we went!

At Namdaemun Market

After an exhausting morning at the palace, we took a cab to the Namdaemun Market, which was located at the Myeung-dong district. This huge night-and-day market dates back to the 15th century and has thousands of shops and stalls selling food, ginseng, dried seaweed, clothes, shoes, hiking gear, watches, handicrafts, spectacles and contact lenses. Food stalls offer cheap meals for the adventurous, including octopus and tteokbokki (pressed rice cakes and veggies in a spicy sauce).

At Namdaemun Market

Despite what the Lonely Planet said about this market, to me, Namdaemun Market was nothing more than a cleaner, more organised version of Chatuchak (the famous market in Bangkok), with only half the fun shopping at the latter. We bought little more than some snack, which wasn’t that great to begin with. We also had our lunch here – mildly satisfactory. It was over lunch that I decided that, yes, I do not and could not like kimchi!

From the market, we navigated our way to the Namsan Summit, where the N Seoul Tower was located at. It was within walking distance, but not exactly very near to walk. As usual, we amused ourselves with silly antics throughout the way.

N Seoul Tower

N Seoul Tower is a communication tower located in Seoul, South Korea. Built in 1969, and opened to the public in 1980, the tower measures 236.7 m (777 ft) in height (from the base) and tops out at 479.7 m (1,574 ft) above sea level. It has also been known as the Namsan Tower or Seoul Tower. After the tower’s original owner merged with the CJ Corporation, it was renamed the N Seoul Tower (official name CJ Seoul Tower).

Namsan Cable Car

Most visitors ride the Namsan cable car up the mountain, and then walk to the tower. I don’t know about you, but I have a phobia of height. So riding on the cable car across valleys (albeit beautiful, with all the blooming flowers) was a terrifying experience. Thank goodness it was a quick ride!

Teddy Bears @ Namsan Summit

The tower features a gift shop and restaurants on the ground floor. Visitors may go up the tower for a fee. There are four observation decks (the 4th observation deck, which is the revolving restaurant, rotates at a rate of one revolution every 48 minutes), as well as gift shops and two restaurants. Most of the city of Seoul can be seen from the top.

At Teddy Bear Museum, Namsan Summit

But did you know the main attraction of this spot was a teddy bear museum? Apparently this is a spin-off from the original one at Jeju Island. But the three of us sure had a whale of time shopping at the museum shop (at which I spent most of my shopping budget) and of course the museum itself. Took a great many photos at the museum, which featured bears in various scenes throughout the history of Korea. I even made a Vlog featuring (Princess) Cheryl telling us how bears were the ones who built her *cough* castle *cough*.

By the end of our little adventure here, I was absolutely beat, and I can tell that Shafik and Cheryl were utterly exhausted too. But I was hell bent on visiting a Seoul cathedral. To me, to visit a place of Jesus-worship in a predominantly Buddhist country was truly a novelty. And there happen to be one nearby where we were.

Myeong-Dong Night Market

On the way to the said cathedral, we passed by the night market of Myeong-dong. Actually, Myeong-dong is a compact, traffic-quiet zone packed with fashion stores that attract mainly young shoppers. From here you can find many shops you could typically see in Singapore, but it was the fashionable crowd which caught my attention. I was not sure if this was the Orchard Road of Seoul, but it sure felt like it.

Myeong-Dong Catholic Cathedral

And so on to the cathedral. The Myeong-Dong Catholic Cathedral is an elegant brick Renaissance-style Cathedral was constructed between 1894 and 1898 by Chinese bricklayers. Inside, the traditional vaulted ceiling and stained-glass windows contrast with the modern air-conditioning and the TV screens that help worshipers at the back see what is going on. The cathedral provided a sanctuary for student and trade-union protesters during the long period of military rule after the Korean War, and is a national symbol of democracy and human rights.

Myeong-Dong Catholic Cathedral

During our visit, a mass was in session, presided over by a nun. According to Cheryl, it was amazing that a weekday evening mass like this was so well attended, unlike in Singapore. I felt very disrespectful to take photos while the mass was in progress, so after a few quick snaps, I stopped. Partly because the droning voice of the nun (can a female lead a mass?) was mystical if not a bit eerie, and partly also because I saw some very interesting features in this church.

Myeong-Dong Catholic Cathedral

If you, like me, are a fan of Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code, you will know why I find at least three features of this main door interesting. I won’t go into the details out of respect for my Catholic readers, but if you would like to know what I am talking about, drop me a note.

Night @ Hongik District

Our final destination of the day was Hongik, a student-filled district because of the nearby Hongik University. After a relatively long train ride from Myeong-dong to Hongik, we immersed ourselves among hordes of students – both locals and foreigners. It was indeed a very vibrant “university town”, with fashionable students walking up and down the streets, plentiful of shops catering to the young crowd, impromptu student music group performances, youth parks complete with localised graffiti… you get the drift.

Night @ Hongik District

We had our dinner here at Whoppee (the Korean version of Pizza Hut, where I fall asleep waiting for my food – I was that tired!) before trawling the streets looking for nice places to drink. Found a basement jazz bar playing absolutely delicious classic jazz songs, with a Korean waitress who speak close-to-perfect English! After that, we spent almost an hour walking up and down the streets trying to look for another bar playing English songs, and finally settled for a second-floor place called Storm Bar.

By the end of the night, we were so beat (and me, a bit high from the endless rounds of Long Island Tea) that we took a cab back to Beewon and called it a night. I guess we all needed the rest!

Click here for the full set of photos we took for the day. My camera’s memory card somehow maxed out during our time at Gyeongbokgung, so for the rest of the day I was snapping away using Cheryl’s. Thanks, girl :)

The Seoul of Korea: Day 1 – Incheon International Airport, Beewon Guesthouse, Jongmyo @ Gwanghwamun & Nightlife @ Itaewon

We have arrived! Not really in style due to the insufferable long journey, and I had never been so glad to see another foreign airport in my life.

Arrival @ Incheon International Airport

Incheon International Airport was a hassle-free and efficient airport. Less posh than Changi, but painless nonetheless unlike some other airports I can think of. A bubble of excitement starts to rise within me when I see Korean writing all over the place. I was indeed in Seoul!

First Ride on Seoul Metro System

Getting to the city of Seoul from the Incheon airport was kinda tricky. The Lonely Planet guidebook for Seoul was written back in 2005, when the metro system was yet to be connected to the airport, which was located on a separate island away from the mainland.

So feeling more and more like some clueless travelers in a metropolitan city, Cheryl and I managed to decipher the unhelpful Korean “code” to know that to get to Jongno-san (3) Ga station, which was where our guesthouse was located at, we need to take the airport train run by A-Rex to Gimpo International Airport (despite the name, this airport now only serves domestic flights), and then to connect to Seoul’s metro system Line 6.

First Ride on Seoul Metro System

To my surprise, the entire journey from the airport to Seoul city took more than 1.5 hours despite the efficient train system. It was also during this journey when we had our first “cultural shock”.

Koreans are undoubtedly very respectful of their elders. Whether that’s because theirs is an aging society (hence the high number of senior citizens in Seoul) or it was simply a Korean culture, everywhere you go you’ll see the privileges bestowed upon the older Koreans.

Like in the train. At the end of each train cars, there will be six seats allocated by the elderly, pregnant women, and handicaps. But being the clueless Singaporeans we are, we thought it will be the same as Singapore train system. So we plonked our collective assess on these “reserved seats” and promptly fall asleep with our luggages and backpack…

… only to be rudely woken up by a Korean man, who jabbered at Shafik and I in Korean, pulling us up from the seats and pointed to the signs above us. Cheryl was totally terrified with the commotion, and tried to stand up. Another man joined the commotion, seemingly to tell off the first man for reprimanding us the clueless tourists. The first man relented and pushed Cheryl back into her seat, where another elderly woman who took my seat pulled her down as well.

It was not the Korean hospitality we were expecting, and the saying that the Koreans are a “rat-race population like any other metropolitan citizens, but a graceful one nonetheless” will take on a whole new meaning of which I was going to discover in the next few days.

But next time you are in Seoul, remember to stay clear of these seats, unless you are over 65.

Beewon Guesthouse

Beewon Guesthouse was my accommodation of choice for various reasons. I was eager to experience again the fun of meeting with other backpackers, it was highly recommended by Lonely Planet as “the best of cheap sleep in Seoul”, and it was located within Insadong, the small districts filled with ancient palaces and cultural tea shops.

This new budget option is located in an orange-tiled building down the street behind the GS gas station, opposite Changdeok Palace. It sets new standard combining motel-styled rooms, with guesthouse style communal facilities. The owner keeps it clean and works hard to please her guests. Rooms have air-cond, satellite television and video, fridge, hair dryer, towels, soap and toiletries. Breakfast Internet, and the washing machine are free and discounts are given for longer stays. The kitchen is large and the lobby has greenery and a mini chandelier.

We booked for a room for three, and it was a basic one. A double bed (which of course I have gracefully granted Shafik and Cheryl the honour) and a (thin) mattress on the heated floor (they are heated throughout the day). An attached basic bathroom with bath tub. And that’s about it! Just enough for us to feel comfortable but not enough to make us reluctant to leave the room to taste whatever Seoul has to offer.

The only complaint that I had was that there were some construction going on during our stay, and apparently work was being done in the room directly above ours. Hearing drilling and knocking and sawing first thing in the morning wasn’t my idea of a wake up call, but we preserved, and I have to thank Cheryl and Shafik for putting up with these for me. They are more used to staying in hotel but gamely agreed to try this out at my insistence.

In the end, we didn’t get to know anyone else since we were out of the guesthouse most of the time. So… it wouldn’t have made any difference had we stayed in a motel instead, but, oh well! There is a first time for everything, hehe.

Beewon Guesthouse

After a quick one-hour nap, we rose ourselves in search for our first Korean culinary experience… only to discover it was raining. Again! I had the worst luck with weather, just like my experience in Athens during Christmas and Boxing Day. But I was determined to head out, and so we did… and in not time I was drenched. Not enough to be entirely wet, but enough to make me feeling sick and feverish.

Definitely not a good start for the holidays, but my high spirit proven too strong to be intimidated by some fever. (Plus Cheryl has packed some panadol which I took religiously for two days, hehe)

First Korean Culinary Experience

Soon we found a promising looking eatery serving Korean food, so we stepped in… partly because we were famished, and we needed the shelter from incessant rain. To our (slight) horror, none of the wait staff speak English, and the menu was entirely in Korean. After some heavy hand signs and finger pointing, we agreed on a “set meal” priced at W10,000 each, which seemed reasonable for me.

The first dish arrived in a big pot simmering on a hot stove, cooking some kind of fish meat with loads of vegetables in a spicy looking broth (I wasn’t wrong).

And then the side dishes start to arrive. I counted not one, not two, not three… but seven side dishes altogether. Later on I realized that the Koreans always, always have side dishes to go with their main courses, including the mandatory kimchi and radishes.

First Korean Culinary Experience

For the price we are paying, there were sure many dishes, including a platter of raw fish of unknown origins but tasted absolutely heavenly to me, grilled saba fish much to Shafik’s delight (since he did fancy most of the dishes served on the table), and many other varieties of Korean goodness. I was stuffed to the brim (ah, to hell with my diet, I am on holiday!), but Cheryl can’t eat most of the vege, and Shafik needed more meat.

But first thing first. After lunch, we needed to start our proper visiting! And no one can argue the appropriateness of starting off a Korean tour by visiting one of the many palaces all over Seoul, especially in the Gwanghwamun area where we were based at.

Towards Jongmyo @ Gwanghwamun

Although their size and splendour have been greatly reduced by wars, fires and Japanese colonial policy, Seoul’s royal palace compounds contain a variety of restored buildings that offer visitors glimpses of Korea’s fascinating feudal past. The palaces followed Confucian ideals of frugality and simplicity, which makes them unique, but don’t expect the opulent grandeur of Western palaces.

Today the large palaces are deserted, but the maze of corridors, courtyards, buildings and gardens, used to be thronged with hundreds of government officials and scholars. Eunuchs and concubines, soldiers, servants and slaves, the grand formal buildings, the government businesses were carried out, contrast with the smaller, more informal living quarters, divided into male and female sections as dictated by Confucian principles. In the warmer months, free concerts and historical reenactments are held in the palaces, some of which are popular backdrops for wedding photos and videos.

At Jongmyo, Gwanghwamun

And we had one literally at our doorstep. Surrounded by dense woodland are the impressive buildings of Jongmyo, which house the spirit tablets of the Joseon kings and queens and some of their most loyal government officials. Their spirits are believed to reside in a special hole bored into the wooden tablets.

Jongmyo was one of our few palace experiences in Seoul. While we appreciate its steep history, but after many rounds of reading on Korean history related to each building, the Korean names started to be interchangeable with each other, and the facts started to sound the same.

So instead of really immersing ourselves in the ancient tales of Seoul (com’on, we are no history buff!), we took a great many photos instead. Here are some of the best photos I took at Jongmyo.

At Jongmyo, Gwanghwamun

At Jongmywo, Gwanghwamun

At Jongmyo, Gwanghwamun

At Jongmyo, Gwanghwamun

Here in Jongmyo we also shot Shafik’s first (and only) MTV in Seoul. LOL. I dare not share it here in case he get mad at me. But we did the first of our many Vlog here as well.

Right after the shoot of this Vlog, we trekked our way back to Jongmyo’s entrance and soon was in hunt for… food! Shafik was hungry. Okay, that’s a given, he is always hungry. But Cheryl and I were kinda starving too. So when we saw pictures of food at this restaurant we just couldn’t resist.

Late Lunch @ Insadong

We ordered so much meat-based dishes just to satisfy our cravings here! It was also at this little eatery at the corner of Insadong where I had my first Korean beer called “Hite”. Absolutely smooth, though a little bland, but fatal nonetheless.

Clubbing @ Itaewon

After a couple hours of rest in the guesthouse, we set out for our first nightlife in Seoul! Our location of choice was none other than Itaewon, a foreigner-friendly spot dotted with countless bars and clubs – though you’ll need to be careful not to step into any of the sleazy ones if sleaze is not what you are looking for.

We had a whale of a time here, and towards the end of the night, one of us *wink* was mighty drunk and had to be escorted back. It did not help that the cab driver we got didn’t speak a word of English, and he dropped us at some obscure part of Insadong. Frustratedly I navigated our way back to Beewon, with loads of crazy antics along the journey home the way only drunk people could achieve. LOL.

All in all, a great night out and a great end to our first day in Seoul.

Click here for the full set of photos taken during my first day in Seoul.

The Seoul of Korea: Enroute to Seoul

The start of another journey – this time to the most intriguing city in Asia (or so claimed the Lonely Planet guidebook), Seoul in South Korea. The idea of the trip was born a couple of months back as a 21st birthday present for Shafik. Now presenting the fabulous trio who will soon terrorise Seoul with their total random bout of nonsense and insatiable hunger for food and drinks.

Checking In @ Changi Airport

Here’s the birthday boy, Shafik, whose birthday was actually last month but it was not until today that all three of our schedules were able to make it for the trip.

Checking In @ Changi Airport

And here’s the lovely Cheryl, who had to go through a lot to be able to go for this trip. She totally deserves this holiday, and Shafik and I vowed to make it a happy one for all of us!

Inside a Malaysian Airlines Plane

My airline of choice was Malaysian Airlines, over Singapore Airlines (which was too expensive) and Korean Airlines (which didn’t give me the confidence for a good ride). Alas, my previous wonderful experience on MAS to Sydney did not extend to this trip. The plane was tired looking and the seats were donned in a lurid combination of colours. Worst of all, there were no inflight entertainment! A far cry from my experience on SQ during my winter trip.

In addition, the flight also took way too long. First of all we had to fly into KL for transit, which include a 3-hour wait at KLIA. Then enroute to Seoul we have to stop at Kota Kinabalu for an hour before moving on. It was an ironic experience for me to return to my birth town after leaving it almost 30 years ago… and not being able to even set foot on the ground.

All in all we took about 12 hours for an otherwise 7-hour journey and it was definitely tiring. Remind me only to choose SQ next time!

My Holiday Read - "The Gift" by Cecilia Ahern

How would a holiday be complete without the compulsory accompaniment novel? For this trip, I brought along the latest novel from Cecilia Ahern title “The Gift”, which was totally engrossing ten pages into the tale. It was not until the end of my trip when I finally managed to finish the entire novel… in a flood of tears. Ahern has the impeccable capability to weave a TV-like magical quality to her stories, and this was one of her best. Highly recommended!

So… we only arrived at Incheon International Airport in Seoul the next day, so the tale of our arrival will continue on Day 1 of my “The Seoul of Korea” series!

Click here for the full set of photos taken pre-flight to Seoul.

A Guide To Pack Your Backpack

The key to successful backpacking is, as the term implies, how well you pack your backpack. There must be a balance between too much and too little. I have some experience in packing for long trips and short trips. As I have just packed for my upcoming trip to Seoul (yay!), I thought I will share my “best practices” in packing my backpack.

Let’s awaken that travel bug in your heart, shall we? Heh.

First off, of course, is your backpack.

Your backpack must be sufficient to hold all your belongings, with some space for new stuff you are bound to pick up from your trip. It should be made of canvas, has a detachable haversack, and a metal backbone to support your back when you are carrying it. Backpacks in various sizes – for guys, a 65 litres one should be sufficient. This particular backpack of mine was a Christmas gift from the lovely Cheryl, and was a God-sent during my winter trip last year!

The next most important thing will be your travel documents. And that doesn’t mean only your passport! A great trip means you will probably need a guidebook (mine is a Lonely Planet for Seoul), your flight e-tickets, email confirmation and directions to your accomodation of choice, a notebook (trust me, you’ll need it if you gonna do a travelog), and various print out of miscellaneous information not available in your guidebook. Usually, I will pack all these into a small carry bag; in my case, a Crumpler.

Next up – clothes!!! There is always a danger of overpacking the actual amount of clothes you’ll need. Here’s what I would usually do. For tops, I will set aside one to wear on the plane, one for each day I will spend on my trip. Since I’ll spend six days in Korea, I will bring six tops in my bag. Among these tops, have half of them of your primary colour – that’s black for me because it’s slimming and it goes with almost everything – and half of various colour to add variety. One of them should be a shirt in case you want to go somewhere smart, eventhough you are only backpacking.

Forget about extra shirt to wear while you sleep. Wear the same thing. The rule of thumb is every shirt can be worn for at least twice. Just air your shirts everytime you come back to your room. This will work even better if you are visiting cold countries.

Winter Clothes! Don’t you just love them? Here I have to go a little irrational, hehe. I always wear a long sleev pullover (black, from Esprit), on top of which I will don a jacket. I have one thinner one (black, from Bananas) and a thick one (brown, from Zara) in case weather at night during winter is too biting for the thin jacket. And a piece of scarf. One wil do, and choose a colourful one to add some colour to your otherwise dark ensemble of clothes.

Moving on to bottoms now. Rule of thumb – forget about slacks/pants and always go for jeans. They are durable for walking, protect you better against the winter chill, and easy to go with your tops. Wear one on your flight there, and add one into your black. Usually I will only bring one belt. Colour to be totally against the colour of your pairs of jeans (in my case, a white belt against dark blue and black jeans). But my brown belt is just too pretty not to bring along, hehe. And one pair of shorts to wear while you sleep. If you have a nice pair (like mine, from Litmus), it can double up to wear around your backpacker’s inn too. Comfy, presentable, and most importantly, practical.

Okay, now moving on to shoes. Unlike some women I know *snigger* I am very practical when it comes to shoes. At the most I will bring two pairs. One durable pair of walking shoes, and one pair of loafer for variety and double up as sandals. I will wear one on the plane, and keep the other pair in a shoe bag and pack it in my backpack. I am also impartial on socks. My guide is one pair for three days (com’on, don’t be a prude! it won’t kill you), two different colours (mine is black and white), and wear one on the plane. Pack the other pair of socks in the shoe bag as well.

All guys love their gadgets, me included. Here a list of things I will definitely bring along for my trip – a universal adapater (invest in a  good one, it will be worth it), my iPod and charger, my camera and charger, my Mac and charger (for blogging, downloading of photos, checking emails etc.), a thumb drive, a memory card reader, mobile phone and charger. If you count properly, you should have four charger cables – so count when you pack them, and put inside a special small bag.

The only stuff I am pretty particular about are my toiletries. This is where I often make mistake (as in, forget to pack some items, or overbuy some stuff). But here’s a list to get you started – toothbrush with cover, toothpaste (travel size), disposable shaver, shaving foam, mouth gargle (travel size), body shampoo (travel size), hair shampoo (I have to use my Bodyshop one due to my sensitive scalp), handcream (else your skin will break under harsh winter condition), hair wax, hair spray, and perfume. That’s lots of toiletries for a guy, but hey, if you don’t feel clean and look good for your holiday, when would you?

Now let me tell you a secret. I can’t believe that I actually blogged about this. LOL. And I have a feeling I missed out something. Hmmm… I wonder it is?

Anyway. So, what do you pack in yours when you go on holiday? Not business trips, but going overseas for leisure.

London Day 4 – St. Paul’s Cathedral, Tower of London, Hairspray the Musical & Final Night in Soho

Happy New Year 2009! This was my last day in London, and I intended to visit a couple of places that I missed out in my first few days here, catch another musical and drink the night away!

St. Paul's Cathedral

A Cathedral dedicated to St Paul has overlooked the City of London since 604AD, a constant reminder to this great commercial centre of the importance of the spiritual side of life. The current Cathedral – the fourth to occupy this site – was designed by the court architect Sir Christopher Wren and built between 1675 and 1710 after its predecessor was destroyed in the Great Fire of London. Its architectural and artistic importance reflect the determination of the five monarchs who oversaw its building that London’s leading church should be as beautiful and imposing as their private palaces.

The narrow staircase going down to Echo Wall

Visitors were not allowed to take photographs within St. Paul’s, so I have nothing but mere memories of how the place looked like, which was amazing! It was a huge church, with highly-arched domes in golden hues, and the mosaics made me speechless. While I was there, there was a service in session, so I got to see how one looked like. I also went up to the Echo Wall, a circular balcony above the main area of the church, where reputedly if you whisper to the wall, the person directly opposite you will be able to hear you. Too bad I was alone so can’t test out the claim, hehe.

View from St Paul's Cathedral

A very narrow staircase let me to the outside of the dome – I can’t remember the name. From here, I can see London sprawling in all directions. The clock towers chimed and chimed while I walked around the balcony.

After spending some more time at the cathedral, I left for Tower of London… which, to my dismay, was still closed! There went my final chance to visit the famous landmark of London. Disconsolately I went to the tourist shop to get some souveniers, and then off along River Thames to take some photos from the outside instead.

Tower of London

Tower of London

Tower of London

After some aimless wondering here, I decided to head back to Soho in search for my next musical. Walked around Piccadilly Circus a little, before heading into the famous HMV to enquire at the musical ticket counter. Found out that there was a screening of Hairspray that night! Immediately I got one of the better seats and was all set to see my all-time favorite movie, on stage!

Hairspray the Musical @ Shaftesbury Theatre, London

I have lots of time to kill while waiting for the show, so I went around first to scout for the theatre, which is located at the far end of Soho. After which, I went to shop for some shirts at Zara (the price was great!) before heading to a cozy looking shop for an early dinner.

Which was a great decision. The service was impeccable – a great waitress made all the difference. I ordered way too much – a huge rocket leaves salad, chunks of yummy stick, a dizzying dessert and a bottle of wine. It was one of the most satisfying dinner I ever had during the entire trip. Including a nice tip for the waitress, I spent about 50 pounds. No complaints.

Last Dinner in London @ Old Compton Street

Last Dinner in London @ Old Compton Street

Last Dinner in London @ Old Compton Street

Soon it was time for Hairspray! The musical itself was a blast, and I am definitely not the only one in the audience who knew the lyrics to all the song. The lead actress seemed a little tired I must say. But the character Link Larkin was absolute blast and a dashing actor to booth. Edna was a great hoot on stage. Towards the end of the play I was on my feet to sing and dance along with a couple of other guys who seem to know the songs as well as I do!

All in all, a great musical!

Hairspray the Musical @ Shaftesbury Theatre, London

High from the wonderful musical, I made my way to the main streets of Soho for a last night of pub-hopping. During my consumption of copious amount of London-beer (oh, how much I missed them!) I got to know two wonderful lads from Cornwall. Bernard and William were down in London for a holiday, and we spend some happy hours together trawling the streets of Soho until the wee hour of the morning.

Last Night at Soho

Last Night at Soho

You know what? The guys are actually musician! Bernard plays the cello and William fiddles on the violin a Cornwall-based string quartet name Orion IV. Guys, I missed you!

So it was almost 4 a.m. before I reached Liping’s house in Maida Vale. What an (almost) perfect end to my London trip. Click here for photos taken during my last day here.