The One With Ilulissat Kangerlua – The Hike To Holms Bakke

I didn’t believe it at first.

When one of the tour guides told me yesterday how Ilulissat Kangerlua produces icebergs everyday, pushing them down into the sea, some times choking up the entire Disko Bay making it impossible for boats to pass, therefore a threat to tourism. I looked around the gigantic icebergs floating lazily around me, and I thought, well, it couldn’t get any worse than this.

Hiking Trail in Ilulissat

So today we went off to a thrilling hike from Ilulissat Kangia, which will take us all the way up the mountain to see the Icefjord. The starting point was at this old helipad at the outskirt of town, which was a snap to get to by taxi from our hotel. Plenty of tourists were congregating at the base station, so I thought, well, there’s certainly strength in number, so there is little risk hiking up a mountain in Greenland, right?

Hiking Trail in Ilulissat

Well, I was wrong. I overlooked the fact that Greenland is a vast, desolate land. Though we started our hike with a surprising number of other hikers, soon we were swallowed by the mountainside. The paths were by no mean difficult; they were cleverly marked with stones in blue, yellow and red. Upon reaching one marker, we straightened up and cast our eyes around looking for the next marker, which can be up to 100 m away from us. It was a good thing that I wasn’t alone in this journey. I would have been terrified by the silence that seems to press against the eardrums.

When I reached Holms Bakke after an hour hike, I was stunned into silence.

Ilulissat Kangerlua

Right in front of me is the very thing I didn’t believed in. The icefjord was crammed with icebergs, some of them the size of small towns. There was hardly any space for a kayak to go through, never mind a fishing boat.

Ilulissat Kangerlua

Ilulissat Kangerlua

We skirted round the fjord carefully, all the while listening out for the thunderous claps as the icebergs crack and fissure.

Ilulissat Kangerlua

It was, without a doubt, one of the most awesome sights in the world. I am now a believer.

See more of my Greenland 2013 posts:

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